Vyshyvankas: Ukrainian History

History and Cultural Significance

With its origins in 5th century Ukraine, vyshyvankas have been the centre of traditional Ukrainian clothing ever since. With stitching styles and techniques similar to fellow Eastern European traditional clothes, they have become a symbol of strength and perseverance of Ukrainian culture and history. While being limited from their identity, in particular by the Russian Empire and later on Soviet Union, vyshyvankas were one way Ukrainians could protest the oppression. Stitching their culture and history by hand, stitch by stitch, was one way they preserved what they had left.

For centuries, speaking or writing their language could lead to arrests, deportation or, in many unfortunate cases, death. With the chauvinistic policies the Russian leadership administered, many languages went extinct across their land, and there’s no doubt that Ukrainian was on their bucket list. Nevertheless, Ukrainian writers and poets continued, even if it was the last thing they did.

Although depending on the region, the embroidery styles, techniques and colours vary, vyshyvankas have represented a quiet, but not silent, unity of the nation as it was the most widely accepted cultural mark and rarely as persecuted as any other mark of Ukrainian.

Styles

Each region has not only its own stitching technique but also traditional motifs, colours and details. Borshchi embroidery, for example, is known for being one of the most original styles. Known for featuring the colour black, the scheme represents their fertile soil. Unlike in many cases, black is not known for standing for sorrow, but instead wisdom, and is often used for weddings, wishing the couple a strong relationship and wealth.Vyshyvankas use over 200 stitching techniques to create their pieces, and it requires years to master the art of Ukrainian embroidery. The colour red, along with black, is the most popular colour. Representing joy, love and luck, it is seen all over Ukrainian regions. White, although rarer, is associated with holiness, purity and innocence. Blue embroidery poses strong significance, especially at these times. Traditionally worn by men going off to fight, it was considered to protect and give peace of mind.

Today, vyshyvankas tend to be worn on special occasions and holidays including Christmas, Easter and, of course, Vyshyvanka Day, which is on the third Thursday of May.

History of Vyshyvanka Day

Unlike the vyshyvanka itself, the international day of celebration for it is a relatively fresh tradition. Initially suggested in 2006 by Lesia Voroniuk, a student at Chernivtsi University, she motioned her classmates and her all dress up for a day. This idea quickly grew to faculty members, family and friends. Having started with only a few dozen participants, the international day of vyshyvankas has grown across the globe, with Ukrainians and foreigners enjoying the art. 

Today, Lesia is active on social media, helping people discover the beauty of Ukrainian heritage. In 2022, the celebration became a winner at the European Heritage Awards/Europa Nostra Awards.