The old-money aesthetic—known for being timeless, classy, and sophisticated. A look that doesn’t scream money, but whispers wealth. With the resurgence of preppy fashion on social media platforms such as TikTok and the immense popularity of series such as Gossip Girl and Scream Queens, this article will be discussing the origins, history, and characteristics of the old money aesthetic and what it has come to be today.
The old money aesthetic is most notable for its idea of understated elegance based on a wealthy and classic style, thus often referred to as ‘quiet luxury’ or ‘stealth wealth’. At first glance, one might find the clothes to come across as a bit plain or boring, but are in fact, of high quality and luxury brands. The muted and neutral colour palette (white, beige, cream, black, and brown, to name a few colours) is one of the most noteworthy aspects of this style. Some signature clothing items include navy blazers, custom-tailored pieces such as suits, shirts, and blouses, cable knit sweaters, trench- and wool coats, Oxfords, low-heeled pumps, tights, Mary Janes, and matching sets. Other accessories may contain pearl or gold jewellery, antique brooches, designer handbags with little to no logos, popular materials being silk and cashmere, and gloves. The style focuses on quality, logo-free designer items, and timeless pieces. Some leisurely activities that are commonly associated with the old-money lifestyle are horseback riding, sailing, tennis, golf, and antique collecting.
However, beyond the glamorously nonchalant lifestyle and chic fashion, the roots of the old money aesthetic trace back many years. According to a thesis written by Ana Lingala clarifying the origins of the old money aesthetic and the cultural and socioeconomic significance of preppy during that period in history, the origins of this aesthetic can be traced back to the 19th century in a relationship between the upper echelons of America and private college preparatory schools.
The British preparatory school system did not initially house and educate the wealthy students they are known for instructing, instead providing education to those who needed it, no matter their social status. This eventually changed, and by the mid-1800s, the majority of these schools’ students were sons of aristocrats and those who could afford the luxury of studying therein. Such schools valued athleticism (believing that athletics would develop strong character, ambition, and manliness), discipline, and academics, hence mandating neat and simple uniforms. These uniforms would consist of pieces such as blazers, collared shirts, ties, and sturdy black shoes, which are all staples of the old-money aesthetic today.
Another important factor in understanding the history of the old money style is the WASPs - White Anglo-Saxon Protestants.
At the beginning of the 1880s, there was a rise in private boarding schools in the United States thanks to the WASPs. Private schools were no longer merely a means to getting quality education, but also a way to distinguish the upper class from the lower class. The “White Anglo-Saxon Protestants’, or WASPs, was a term coined by American sociologist E. Digby Baltzell, who also dubbed himself a WASP. He describes the society as one where ‘old-stock patriots seek hereditary and historical roots in a rapidly changing world”, as written in Baltzell’s book The Protestant Establishment. Rich, white, and Anglo-Saxon Protestant families resided in northeastern USA as the undoubted elites witnessed a proliferation in wealthy men who had then recently earned their fortune thanks to the Industrial Revolution. Simply put, the WASPs wished to differentiate themselves from the newly wealthy, as ‘old-stock patriots’.
Other than the obvious contrast between the flashy and conspicuous new money and the subtle and conservative old money, this answers the important question of what truly distinguishes old money from new money. Inheritance. Old money is generational wealth. Heritage, legacy, and connections. These are the factors that determine acceptance in the WASP society. Oldness was heavily emphasized in the community of WASPs. To them, inheritance represents the most ‘sacred means of wealth’.
Now, when talking about fashion and old money, the two topics do not exactly go hand in hand. Fashion is about novelty, new ideas, and developments, which contradicts the WASPs’ idea of relying on the past. Nevertheless, this does not mean that clothing doesn’t play an important role in the old-money lifestyle/aesthetic. Staples of the preppy look have stayed the same for the past centuries, reinforcing the WASPs’ idea and conservative principles of consistency.
Another aspect valued by the WASPs is ruggedness. As mentioned earlier, some of the hobbies that old-money folks indulge in activities such as skiing, sailing and horseback riding, mostly involving the outdoors, and there is a reason for this. During industrialization, it was a luxury to indulge in outdoor activities for pleasure, and the quality of carelessness and messiness was often seen as lacking in the lower classes. Accounting for the fact that these hobbies often require resources and traveling, this also limits the amount of people that can indulge in them.
As elitist and fastidious as this style may seem to be, comfort was also a factor that made the preppy look what it is today. Shifting from the previous English school uniforms, so-called “Ivy League Look” was a status symbol for wealthy students at Ivy League Colleges, such as Harvard or Yale, and prep schools. In the past, only wealthy and well-connected men could benefit from the world class education, extracurricular development and connections these institutions provided. Today, it’s open to many more and the universities attempt to support equality using financial aid and affirmative action.
Comprising of Brooks Brothers button-downs, loafers, and knit sweaters. The Ivy League athletic conference, which was not formed by the 8 infamous universities until 1954, was nevertheless synonymous with the intellectual, well-educated, rich kind. The Seven Sisters, a group of highly selective and traditionally all-girls liberal arts colleges (Barnard, Bryn Mawr , Mount Holyoke, Smith, Radcliffe, Vassar, and Wellesley), promoted a modest and restricting wardrobe of heavy and floor-length skirts and crinolines in the 19th century. This caused a rebellion of women clad in menswear-inspired pieces such as blazers and Bermuda shorts, dressed to look smart and a part of the elite. This ‘revolution’ was publicized by an article published in 1937 by Life magazine, which resulted in the preppy style being largely popular amongst the nation. The preppy look has since then continued to change and evolve over the years, becoming accessible to many and not just the elite. Today, the word preppy mainly defines a group of smart, often popular and trendy students.
Naturally, many have deemed the old money aesthetic as problematic. The same goes for other similar aesthetics such as dark academia, which has been criticized for romanticizing elite culture. Despite these being very reasonable points, the popularisation and growing fascination of such aesthetics and lifestyles have made certain elements of the exclusive culture more accessible to the public. Let’s be realistic here: not everyone can exactly be ‘old money’ unless you come from a family with significant generational wealth. It’s simply a matter of luck. That doesn’t mean you need to attend Harvard to read Virgil or Ovid. You don’t have to be a member of the gentry to dress classy or be sophisticated, and especially educated.
This brings us to our final point: why is this trend making its comeback? Perhaps it’s the appreciation of quality clothes. With the rise of criticism of fast fashion, people, especially teenagers, are questioning them spending thousands of dollars on low-quality items that will only go out of trend in the next few months. Despite ‘old money’ being known as a trend to many, the idea of a timeless wardrobe is sustainable and does not contribute to the vicious cycle of fast fashion. As Hillary Hoffower writes for Business Insider, the old money aesthetic could also be rooted in a search for nostalgia. It could just be that we are growing tired of the technology that constantly surrounds us and that we seek the lush life of an unprecedented time.
In closing, it’s safe to say that the old money aesthetic goes way back in time. In spite of its oppressive and classist origins, it has not only developed throughout the years and become more accessible to all, promoting sustainable, timeless and unique closet staples. It’s the perfect look for anyone who wants to exude a wealthy and elegant aura without being too over the top.
Sources
https://ecommons.cornell.edu/bitstream/handle/1813/33212/Anu%20Lingala.pdf?sequence=2&isAllowed=y
https://www.instyle.com/fashion/preppy-fashion-trend-50s-80s-90s-style-evolution
https://www.ivy-style.com/boyfriend-jacket-the-vassar-girl-and-the-ivy-league-look.html
https://www.thedailybeast.com/the-seven-sisters-all-american-preppy-style
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-YWblbbMsFs&ab_channel=MinaLe